The Summer of Riesling continues, with this week’s spotlight being on a region often forgotten amongst a sea of Mosel and Clare Valley - Alsace.
In the northernmost corner of France, bordering Germany, the Vosges mountain range runs parallel to the extension of the Rhein river. It’s western flank is bitterly cold and battered by constant rain. The eastern flank, however, enjoys France’s highest hours of sunshine and most temperate climate throughout much of the year. Sun radiates down onto a patchwork quilt of extraordinarily diverse soils, gently ripening the aromatic grapes that cover most of the vineyard area.
It’s not hard to see why the Germans went to war over it so many times, nor why the French fought so hard to take it back. The regional identity has a foot in each camp, taking the aromatic varieties of Germany and producing more typically French styles of wine . Riesling is often, though not always, fermented dry, with an impressive heft and intensity thanks to the long, generous ripening period. Most importantly, they retain Riesling’s profound acidity and structure, exceeding that of the steeliest German version.
Some of the world’s most remarkable vignerons can be found in Alsace, a well-kept secret by those in the know. See below for a selection of our favourites, with even more available to browse via the website.
Domaine Weinbach
At the foot of the grand Schlossberg hill, there is a tiny estate built in 1612 by Capucin monks. This unassuming building hardly hints at reputation of its occupants as makers of some of Alsace’s - indeed, the world’s - most remarkable wines. Domaine Weinbach holds small parcels in Mambourg, Mackrain, Kaefferkopf and Furstentum, but it is the esteemed Schlossberg vineyard that forms the heart of their oeuvre.
The Schlossberg vineyard was the first of Alsace’s vineyards to be recognised as grand cru status, though its reputation for yielding extraordinary fruit spans back as far as the 15th century. Of course, there are no great wines without great winemakers. Collette Faller, who sadly passed away in 2015, was the first in the line of exceptional women who helmed Domaine Weinbach, followed by her daughters Catherine and Laurence. Catherine's sons Théo and Eddy remain at the winery today, upholding the legacy left by their matriarchal predecessors.
Rene Muré
Twelve generations of the Muré family have tended their vines in Rouffach, a township of Alsace that sits just south of Colmar. The 28-hectare estate operates mostly in the surrounding Côte de Rouffach, where the hills bow inwards and create a variety of different exposures, altitudes and pockets of distinct soil profiles. Their most prized vineyard, Clos Saint Landelin, sits at the heart of Grand Cru Vorbourg, on terraced slopes facing southwards. Their planting fits a little of everything in this remarkable vineyard, with Riesling at the core, flanked by Pinot Gris, Sylvaner, Gewurztraminer above and Pinot Noir plantings on the flats just below.
Gustave Lorentz
Gustave Lorentz holds the largest parcel of vines in Altenberg de Bergheim, at around 12ha, and with vines aged 30 to 50 years old, as well as a few other notable parcels in Grand Cru Kanzlerberg and the surrounds. Despite their holdings being in only two Grand Crus permitted to blend varieties, Lorentz focuses on varietal expressions from selected vineyard parcels. Their Altenberg de Bergheim Riesling epitomises the vineyard - full in body, textural yet still dry and persistent, aromatic without being cloying and unfurling in the glass like petals on a lily.
