Adam Foster is a great example of the new guard in Heathcote, bringing modern restraint to an otherwise traditional Aussie region. The aptly named ‘Once in a Lifetime’ Shiraz - yes, it’s a Talking Heads reference - comes from one of Adam’s core blocks of Shiraz, where the Cambrian soils are plentiful, imparting signature Heathcote earthiness. Being from a top vintage in Heathcote, it's a delight to see it tasting like it’s from a top vintage. Briar and blackcurrant notes, plush and velveteen, unfurling slowly out of the glass, like smoke off burning sage. While amenable to drinking young, it will doubtless benefit from 5-10 years in the cellar.