Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2018

Nervi is Oldest winery in Gattinara still making wine, and in 2018 was purchased by Roberto Conterno of Giacomo Conterno. This wine is 100% Nebbiolo, sourced from the Molsino, Valferana, Garavoglie, and Casacce vineyards, and is fermented and macerated in steel at controlled temperatures for 20-30 days, followed by 30 months in large wood. A low-yielding vintage, the 2018 echoes the more traditional Gattinara model we saw in wines of the '70s and '80s, being a more elegant style of wine that helped gain DOCG status in 1990 with a minimum alcohol of only 12.5%. This 2018 sits a little higher but with concentration, poise and, excuse the pun, nerviness. The nose is traditional Gattinara and is punctuated with lifted orange blossom notes and what we always see in Nebbiolo from this part of the world, a hint of peach. The fruit spectrum is darker, but in a very cool climate way. There is spice aplenty and a purity of fruit that we have come to expect from Nervi-Conterno, even pre-Roberto, but perhaps is amplified with the precision he brings with his winemaking. Perhaps the most profound element here is the tannin, which displays a level of sophistication not often seen in young Nebbiolo. There is a seamlessness here with all the key structural components, while the longevity that this appellation is known for is also very evident in the wine. This is a true collector's item that has been built to sample both now and in 40 years' time.

Country: Italy
Producer: Giacoma Conterno
Region: Piedmont
Sub Region: Gattinara