Gamay remains in the spotlight in Australia, with Bass Phillip one of a handful acclaimed producers. Their longstanding interest in all things Gamay is evident in the care lavished upon their plantings of the variety, among some of the oldest in the country. They aim for a style that prizes complexity and balance over stalky, sappy notes or any hints of bubblegum confection. Instead, we see tart red plums, sour cherry, earth and fine-bones to the palate.