The vineyard of Kiedrich Gräfenberg-or 'hill of the counts'-has been used to designate Robert Weil's finest wines since the site was classified as "Weinlage 1 Klasse" in 1867. Home to Weil's oldest vines (up to 80 years of age, with the majority on their own rootstock) it makes perfect sense that Wilhelm Weil decided that it is only from this site that his Grosse Gewächs will derive. In fact, Weil's aim has been to produce a wine of a similar style to the full-bodied dry wines produced in the Rheingau a century ago, when the region's finest Rieslings were the most expensive wines in the world. Despite the high quality of the Turmberg and Klosterberg, this is clearly on another level. It's not necessarily more intense but is certainly finer and more complete-a wine of obvious Grand Cru class. Without doubt this is one of the very finest wines of the Rheingau, full stop.